The making of a bustle skirt for Agatha Stabbenslash- Dirigible Seamstress

Several months ago- a friend came to me and asked me about possibly double dating to a fundraiser style ball being held in October.
After looking into the Team Wench Goblins and Gears Ball that supports MS research, I quickly agreed and then had a moment of panic.

 I realized that it would be ME who would be putting together 4 full costumes for 4 adults to go to this ball.
So while helping my friends and my other half develop their characters so we knew how to dress them properly, I started on my own costume. If you have followed any of my previous posts, you will have seen my second version of the 1872 Basque.  I am in love with this jacket and am continually trimming it.

Now that my friend Lauren had a chance to do some character development with some help from yours truly, we got to work planning fabrics and ideas. What exactly would the seamstress upon a dirigible wear?!

Well this is what we've come up with:
First up- was the patch work apron. Again, see my previous posts on making that. It was fun and cute. Even gave me an excuse to get a gathering foot for my sewing machine.

Now came the big piece for her costume. The skit. Of course she wanted the bustle skirt. What Lady does not dream of covering herself in yards of fabric!

So on we went. Since this is a steampunk event, and not a historical event, I decided that I was just going to draft up what was in my head instead of turning to a pattern.
There are three plain panels- on center front, and one on each side. And then a fourth back panel that created the bustle.
I kept the sewing fairly simple, and put together the three plain panels, and then marked out the back panel where I wanted the gathers, put in the gathers, and then sewed that to the other three.

I also decided I wanted a waistband for some added support and detailing.

So I made up a waistband and added chocolate brown velvet ribbons to the back of it to tie it together. I think they look just lovely hanging down the back over the bustle.

Once the waistband was on, I put some tenative marks in for the bustle and then fit it to my friend. We decided then that they needed some adjustment.
Well, after getting it back home, and properly attaching the waistband now that the garment had been fit, I realized i HATED the way the bustle looked in the back. It was aweful.
So, onto a dress from we have at work, and I spent 45 minutes one evening after work adjusting it.
I am very pleased with how that turned out, and while its not perfect, it is quite nice for my first bustle skirt and no pattern.

So, I give you the pics from my process as well as the finished skirt with the affore mentioned apron over it.

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Eye PIllows

Just had to share with how pleased I am at how the pattern for my Eye Pillows for my Etsy shop (Gossamer Beams) turned out!

This was a special order for a lovely lady who requested one unscented, one sandalwood, and one sandalwood and lavendar combo.

She also requested purple and indigo fabric. Being the fabric nerd I am, I realize that Indigo is a special dye all of its own. As well as knowing the person ordering it fairly well, I KNEW I had to find indigo fabric.
And I did. This was some hand dyed and batik fabric from India. The hand of this fabric is truly wonderful.
(Im glad that I got a wee bit extra, as I'll surely be making something for myself with the excess!)


But each pillow has a slip cover, and then an inner bag which is filled and scented. This way the customer is able to remove the slip covers and wash them between her clients. (She's a holistic therapist specializing in reiki, nutrition, etc.)

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Just a quickie

Even though the sewing is complete for the jacket for myself for the Goblins and Gears Ball next month, I continue to work on it by hand at lunch time at the office. This allows me to A) get a break from looking at the computer during the day, B) let my mind do something creative and enjoyable for a few minutes and C) frees up my time at home to be able to dedicate it to the sewing machine.

The first thing I did in decorating the jacket, was to make buttons. I had never made buttons or used a mould before. I purchased a mould that looks like a Celtic triskil and each branch of the design are tentacles because I am an Airship Commodore after all.

After putting the clay into the mould, (which took much LESS clay than I had originally thought) I pushed a jump ring into the back to use as a button shank and then baked them according to the directions on the clay packaging.
this is how they turned out.

 I had made 16 of them based on the number of buttons that I used on the first version of this jacket I made back in the spring.
Today at lunch, I spent the hour sewing these buttons onto the jacket. Two in back where the peplum meets the body. Two on each cuff and then 6 down the front.
This left me with a few extras, so I centered one on each lapel tab, and still have two left over that will probably end up on my Garrison Cap.
This is how it turned out

So far so good! Im thinking that if I find some braid/rope/trim that I like, I may add it to the sleeve caps. But Im not going to force the issue if I don't find what Im looking for. Pin It Now!

The making of a patchwork apron for "Agitha Stabbenslash- Airship Seamstress"

As some of you know, I am currently working on building 4 complete steampunk costumes for the Goblin's and Gears Ball being held at the end of October.

You may have seen my earlier post with a picture of the second version of the 1872 Basque that I completed made out of microsuede and silk dupioni lining.


This project, albeit simple in nature, was a little more complicated in the end than I originally anticipated. Alsa, I am getting ahead of my own post here....


So. I started out with two packs of fat-quarters. One set was a grouping of calico prints, and the other was more of a monochrome batik dyed look.  I had my friend cut them into quarters, and then she handed them off to me.  After looking at them, I decided that they were still too big and cut them down even further.

As you can see, once I got them down to size, I laid them out on the floor in the order I thought they looked best. I alternated the calicos with the batiks and then sewed them together into two panels of "yardage"

These are the two panels sewn together.

After completing the yardage, I then cut out the half circle pieces for the front and back panels of the apron. 

And ironed them out flat. (did I mention that the ONLY time I ever iron anything is when Im sewing?!)

As you will see in the next photo, I added a couple of front pockets too.

Next came attaching the ruffle. Unfortunately, I do not have pics of the ruffling process. This is where things started to get me in a tizzy. I had purchased a gathering foot for my sewing machine. And even though I had paid for expedited shipping, it was still sent via first class mail. So there was a delay. Then I finally get the thing, and it does NOT fit my machine, even though it stated that it would. Luckily, I have a second machine that it DID fit. So I was all ready to get sewing, when I realized that there was a problem with the feed dogs. They would NOT go into the up position. So after taking the machine apart and putting it back together, I thought I was finally ready to sew.
   This was not the case.
There was a bit of a learning curve to this new foot, combined with the fact that I was attempting to gather a double layer of patchwork fabric. I eventually got frustrated enough that I had to walk away from the project for a couple of hours.
   After a break, a spot of tea and food, I was ready to go again. This time it worked out just fine.

LOOK! proof of me ironing!!!!!

After getting the ruffle on, I gathered the top edge of the whole apron just slightly as it was a bit wide, and I personally felt that it was more aesthetically pleasing this way.
Then came the waistband and that gave me no troubles whatsoever.
I gave the whole thing a final press, and Voila'! Patchwork apron!

This is how I am passing the apron off to "Agitha". She will then add bits-and-baubs to it to make it more "hers" and add things that her character would need and want. 

Next up- is the bustle skirt that she will be wearing.

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Sewing Projects and learning to say "No"

Right now, I am a bit bombarded with projects and am having to learn that it IS in fact ok to say "No" once in a while.

Between learning 6 choreographies for our dance showcase,

sewing 4 full steampunk costumes for the ball in October

one pirate costume for a family member (which has now turned in to other family members requesting costumes for themselves)

as well as running my Etsy Shop- Gossamer Beams


Im a tuckered out little Foxx!
Ive had to turn down a few projects until I can get caught up on these. Its an honor to be asked, don't get me wrong, but Im trying to be more accepting of my limits and personal boundaries 

Im hoping that my new gathering foot for my sewing machine will be here today, instead of tomorrow as the USPS's website seems to anticipate.  At this point, both the patchwork apron, as well as the bustle skirt are on hold until it arrives.

Once that happens I think I may make a little video of how it works. Maybe. Ok, if you ask me nicely I'll make a video!

I do have lots of photos to upload as well of the progress of things.

Here's to a Happy Friday- and hoping that the weekend is as productive as is anticipated!
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